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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a skincare agent containing an effective amount of microcapsules in the range of 0.1 to 5 mm in average diameter obtained by: (a) processing an aqueous formulation of retinol or retinol acid with an oil component in the presence of an emulsifier forming an o / w emulsion, (b) treating the obtained emulsion with an aqueous solution of anionic polymer, (c) contacting the obtained matrix with an aqueous solution of chitosan to form a membrane, and (d) obtaining the encapsulated product, Separation from the aqueous phase, optionally in the presence of a thickener.
    公开号:KR20030011784A
    申请号:KR1020027011570
    申请日:2001-02-03
    公开日:2003-02-11
    发明作者:빌라도트페티트호셉-유이스；데모라가스마리아
    申请人:코그니스 이베리아 에스.엘.；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Skin Care Agent {SKINCARE AGENTS}
    [2] Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is a fat-soluble isoprenoid that has been known for quite some time for its beneficial effects in skin care. This effect is largely due to the fact that retinol promotes the growth, differentiation and preservation of epithelial tissue. Thus, in particular the use of retinol-containing products in so-called anti-ageing products, for example, Roc's "Retinol-concentre bi-actif with AHA" or Vichy's "Reti-C concentre with vitamin C" Very popular. However, a disadvantage of retinol is that it is photochemically unstable and decomposes rapidly under the influence of light, especially at relatively high temperatures. In the field of cosmetics, inadequate stability problems of retinol in a wide variety of ways, for example by storage under inert conditions, by adding antioxidants (for example vitamin E or BHT), or by using light-proof packs There have been attempts to cope.
    [3] However, only encapsulating retinol in a somewhat stable matrix has proved to be of practical value. For example, so-called "thalasspheres" or "cylaspheres" containing 1% by weight retinol encapsulated in a collagen matrix are marketed by Coletica. Sphere Tech Co. markets phospholipid-based liposomes containing 4.5 wt% retinol; The percentage of retinol content in "rovisomes" (matrix: lecithin) of ROVI or sphingosomes (base: sphingolipids) of Lipotec is between 0.3 and 2% by weight. However, these systems do not all exhibit fully satisfactory stability.
    [4] Thus, a problem addressed by the present invention has been to provide retinol microcapsules which are distinguished by higher stability compared to commercially available products, ie exhibiting higher retinol activity for longer periods of time, especially under temperature stress.
    [1] The present invention relates generally to cosmetics, more particularly skin care preparations containing an effective amount of retinol or retinol acid encapsulated in a particular manner.
    [5] The present invention relates to a skin treatment formulation containing an effective amount of microcapsules having an average diameter of 0.1 to 5 mm obtained by:
    [6] (a) processing an aqueous formulation of retinol or retinol acid with the oil component in the presence of an emulsifier to form an o / w emulsion,
    [7] (b) treating the obtained emulsion with an aqueous solution of anionic polymer,
    [8] (c) contacting the obtained matrix with an aqueous chitosan solution to form a film,
    [9] (d) separating the obtained encapsulated product from the aqueous phase, optionally in the presence of a thickener.
    [10] It has surprisingly been found that encapsulation of retinol or retinol acid in a chitosan matrix, especially in combination with carboxymethyl cellulose, can yield microcapsules that are clearly superior to known products in the protection of sensitive components. Thus, skin care preparations according to the invention prepared using chitosan-based retinol microcapsules exhibit up to 20 times the activity of products containing commercially available retinol microcapsules.
    [11] Preparation of Microcapsules
    [12] To prepare the microcapsules according to the invention, o / w emulsions, water and retinol or retinolic acid, which contain an effective amount of emulsifier in addition to the oil component, are prepared in a first step. To form the matrix, an equivalent of anionic polymer aqueous solution is added to the o / w emulsion with vigorous stirring. Suitable anionic polymers besides anionic polysaccharides such as carboxymethyl cellulose or poly (meth) acrylic acid and derivatives thereof such as salts and esters are salts of alginic acid. Alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer units:
    [13]
    [14] The average molecular weight of alginic acid or alginate is in the range of 150,000 to 250,000. Salts of alginic acid and their complete or partial neutralization products are in particular understood to be alkali metal salts, preferably sodium alginate ("algin") and ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts. Particular preference is given to mixed alginates, for example sodium / magnesium or sodium / calcium alginate. However, in an alternative embodiment of the invention, the anionic chitosan derivatives are described, for example, the carboxylation and, above all, meditation described in German patent DE 3713099 C2 (L'Oreal) and German patent application DE 19604180 A1 (Henkel). Nylated products are also suitable for this purpose. The amount of the anionic polymer based on the microcapsules is generally 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight.
    [15] The membrane is formed by the addition of chitosan solution. Chitosan is a biopolymer and belongs to the hydrocolloid group. This forms a film with the anionic polymer. Chemically, chitosan is a partially deacetylated chitin of varying molecular weight, containing the following idealized monomer units:
    [16]
    [17] In contrast to most hydrocolloids that are negatively charged at biological pH values, chitosan is a cationic biopolymer under these conditions. Positively charged chitosans can interact with anti-charged surfaces and are therefore used in hair-care and body-care cosmetics and pharmaceutical formulations (cf. Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 5th Ed., Vol. A6, Weinheim, Verlag Chemie, 1986, pages 231-332 ). An overview of this subject is also described, for example, in [B. Gesslein et al., HAPPI 27 , 57 (1990)] , O. Skaugrud, Drug Cosm. Ind. 148 , 24 (1991) ] and [E. Onsoyen et al., Seifen-Ole-Fette-Wachse 117 , 633 (1991) . Chitosan is prepared from shell residues of chitin, preferably shellfish, which can be obtained in large quantities as a cheap raw material. In the process first described by Hackmann et al., Chitin is first deproteinated by base addition, mineralized by mineral acid addition, and finally, acetylated by strong base addition, and the molecular weight is distributed over a broad spectrum. For example, Makromol. Chem. The corresponding process is known from 177 , 3589 (1976) or French patent application FR 2701266 A. Preferred types are those described in German patent applications DE 4442987 A1 and DE 19537001 A1 (Henkel), average molecular weights 10,000 to 500,000 daltons or 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons and / or Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) less than 5,000 mPas, acetyl Removal is 80 to 88%, ash content less than 0.3% by weight. For better solubility in water, chitosan is generally used in the form of its salts, preferably as glycolate. The amount of chitosan to be used is preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight based on the microcapsules.
    [18] The whole process is preferably carried out in a weak acidic range of pH 3-4. If necessary, the pH is adjusted by adding mineral acid. After formation of the membrane, the pH is increased to 5-6, for example by adding triethanolamine or another base. This is due to other thickeners such as polysaccharides, more particularly xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginate and tylose, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, relatively high The addition of molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides and the like results in an increase in the viscosity which can be further supported. Finally, the microcapsules are separated from the aqueous phase, for example by decantation, filtration or centrifugation. Thereafter, the content percentage of retinol or retinol acid in the microcapsules is about 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight.
    [19] Skin care preparations
    [20] The skin care preparation according to the invention is preferably present in the form of an emulsion. Such emulsions may be o / w emulsions and w / o emulsions containing from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of microcapsules. These formulations may additionally be mild surfactants, oil components, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, hyperlipides, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biological origins. Contain formulations, UV protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, limiting agents, swelling agents, repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentants), perfumes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc. as additional auxiliaries and additives can do.
    [21] Surfactants
    [22] Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be present as surfactants, generally from about 1 to 70% by weight of the formulation, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, More preferably, it comprises 10-30 weight%. Representative examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethers Sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulforiglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, for example Acyl lactylate, acyl tartrate, acyl glutamate and acyl aspartate N-acylamino acids such as te), alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow range of homologous distributions. Representative examples of nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals. ), Optionally partially oxidized alkyl (alkenyl) oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyols Fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homogeneous distribution, but preferably have a narrow range of homogeneous distributions. Representative examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and esterquat, more particularly quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Representative examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines , alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The above-mentioned surfactants are all known compounds. Information on its structure and manufacturing can be found in the relevant overview, for example, in J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54-124 ] or [ J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloeladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217 . Representative examples of particularly suitably mild, ie particularly dermatologically suitable surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acids Sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamate, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or (preferably wheat Protein fatty acid condensates).
    [23] Oil ingredients
    [24] Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, linear C 6-22 fatty acids and linear or branched C 6-22. Esters of fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6-13 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6-22 fatty alcohols, for example myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostear Latex, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl oleate, stearyl myristate Stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl on Kate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, Oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostear Latex, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucil myristate, erucil palmitate, erucil stearate, erucil isostearate, erucil oleate, erucil behenate and erucil It is an eluate. Also suitable are esters of linear C 6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C 18-38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6-22 fatty alcohols (see DE 19756377 A1 ), more particularly dioctyl malate, linear and / or branched fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diols or trimer triols) and / or esters of Guerbet alcohols, C 6-10 fatty acids Triglycerides based, liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixtures based on C 6-18 fatty acids, C 6-22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbe alcohols and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, more particularly benzoic acid, C 2-12 dica Esters of a linear or branched alcohol having a carboxylic acid with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or a polyol containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, Hwandoen cyclohexane, linear and branched C 6-22 fatty alcohol carbonates, for example, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC), C 6-18 fatty alcohols, preferably germanium carbonates based on C 8-10 fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C 6-22 alcohols (eg Finsolv TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetric, dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters and polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclo Hexane.
    [25] Emulsifier
    [26] Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from one or more of the following groups:
    [27] 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide to linear C 8-22 fatty alcohols, C 12-22 fatty acids and alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and 0-5 moles of propylene oxide addition product;
    [28] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;
    [29] Castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil additive products of & 1-15 moles of ethylene oxide;
    [30] & 15 to 60 moles of castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil additive product of ethylene oxide;
    [31] Partial esters of & glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 30 Moles of ethylene oxide adducts;
    [32] & Polyglycerol (average of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl Glucosides, lauryl glucosides) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) and saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxyl having 3 to 18 carbon atoms. Partial esters of acids and 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide adducts thereof;
    [33] Of pentaerythritol, mixed esters of fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols, and / or fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerols according to DE-PS 11 65 574 Mixed esters,
    [34] Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof,
    [35] Wool wax alcohol,
    [36] Polysiloxane / polyalkyl / polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives,
    [37] & Block copolymers such as polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
    [38] Polymer emulsifiers such as Perichen type (TR-1, TR-2) of Goodrich;
    [39] Polyalkylene glycol and
    [40] & Glycerol carbonate.
    [41] & Ethylene oxide addition product
    [42] Fatty alcohol, fatty acid, alkylphenol addition products or castor oil addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide are known commercially available products. These are homogeneous mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amount of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and the amount of substrate on which the addition reaction is carried out. C 12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of glycerol adducts of ethylene oxide are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as cosmetic formulation refatting agents.
    [43] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and use are known from the prior art. They are especially prepared by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding glycoside units, both monoglycosides in which the cyclic sugar units are attached to the fatty alcohol by glycosidic bonds and preferably oligomeric glycosides of the degree of oligomerization up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value, based on which the typical homogeneous distribution of this technical product is based.
    [44] & Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides
    [45] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and use are known from the prior art. They are especially prepared by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding glycoside units, both monoglycosides in which the cyclic sugar units are attached to the fatty alcohol by glycosidic bonds and preferably oligomeric glycosides of the degree of oligomerization up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value, based on which the typical homogeneous distribution of this technical product is based.
    [46] & Partial glycerides
    [47] Representative examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglycerides, hydroxystearic acid diglycerides, isostearic acid monoglycerides, isostearic acid diglycerides, oleic acid monoglycerides, oleic acid diglycerides, ricinol Lenoic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, Technical mixtures, which may still contain tartaric acid monoglycerides, tartaric acid diglycerides, citric acid monoglycerides, citric acid diglycerides, malic acid monoglycerides, malic acid diglycerides and small amounts of triglycerides from the manufacturing process this All. Also suitable are the abovementioned partial glyceride addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide.
    [48] & Sorbitan ester
    [49] Suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, Sorbitan Dioleate, Sorbitan Trioleate, Sorbitan Mono-Eleucate, Sorbitan Sesque-Eleucate, Sorbitan Die-Eleucate, Sorbitan Tri-Eleucate, Sorbitan Monolicinoleate, Sorbitan Ses Quiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate Latex, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan dita Sorbitan sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan di Maleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Also suitable are the aforementioned sorbitan ester addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide.
    [50] & Polyglycerol esters
    [51] Representative examples of suitable polyglycerol esters include polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglycerine-3-diisostearate (Lameform TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina) ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor GS 32) and polyglyceryl polylysinoleate (Admul WOL 1403), polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters include trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol and lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic, which selectively react with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide. Mono-, di- and triesters such as acids, stearic acid, oleic acid and behenic acid.
    [52] & Anionic Emulsifiers
    [53] Representative anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic C 12-22 fatty acids such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and C 12-22 dicarboxylic acids such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid. .
    [54] & Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers
    [55] Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surfactant compounds containing at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate such as cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline and cocoacyl Aminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. Particular preference is given to fatty acid amide derivatives known as CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine . Amphoteric surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. An amphoteric surfactant is a surfactant compound which, in addition to a C 8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contains at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH— or —SO 3 H— group in the molecule and is capable of internal salt formation. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkyl glycine, N-alkyl propionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group Amidopropyl glycine, N-alkyl taurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, another suitable surfactant is a cationic surfactant, those of esterquat type, preferably methyl quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts are particularly preferred.
    [56] Fat and wax
    [57] Representative examples of fats are solid or liquid, vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of glycerides, ie mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are in particular natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice Rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat ), Ceresine, ozocerite (earth earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax and microwax; Chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycols It is a wax. Other suitable additives besides fats are fat-like substances such as lecithin and phospholipids. Lecithin is known among experts as glycerophospholipids formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Thus, lecithin is also frequently cited by experts as phosphatidyl choline (PC). An example of natural lecithin is kephalin, also known as phosphatidic acid, a derivative of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate. In contrast, phospholipids are generally understood to be mono-, preferably diesters (glycero-phosphates) of phosphoric acid and glycerol, usually classified as fats. Sphingosine and sphingolipids are also suitable.
    [58] Pearlescing Wax
    [59] Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, in particular ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular cocofatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, in particular stearic acid monoglycerides; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty compounds, for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, all of which have at least 24 carbon atoms, in particular laurone and distearylethers; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 Ring opening products of polyols having hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
    [60] Viscosity Factors and Thickeners
    [61] Viscosity factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Combinations of these materials with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates of the same chain length are preferably used. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil type (hydrophilic silica), polysaccharides, more particularly xanthan gum, guar-gua, agar-agar, alginate and tylose, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, Relative high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopols And Pemulen type [Goodrich]; Synthalens [Sigma]; Keltrol type [Kelco]; Sepigel type [Seppic]; Salcare type [Allied Clloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other viscous factors that have proved particularly effective are bentonites such as cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and Bentone which is a mixture of propylene carbonate Gel VS-5PC (Rheox). Another suitable viscosity factor is surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids and polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates Or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
    [62] Superfatting agent
    [63] Hyperlipidemic agents can be selected from substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides being It also acts as a foam stabilizer.
    [64] Stabilizer
    [65] Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
    [66] polymer
    [67] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol. Quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salt and acrylamide, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as Luviquat, available under (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, for example Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat L, Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptide, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as amodimethicone, adipic acid and copolymers of dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine , Sandoz), a copolymer of acrylic acid and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat 550, Chemviron), for example polyaminopolyamides as described in FR 2 252 840 A and their crosslinked water soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, for example, optionally in microcrystalline batch Of condensed products of charred chitosan, dihaloalkyl, for example dibromobutane and bis-dialkylamine, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, for example Celanese Jaguar CBS, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-16, quaternized ammonium salt polymer, for example Mirapol of Miranol A-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1.
    [68] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobonyl acrylate Copolymers, methyl vinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked, and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacryl Rate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / Vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are described in Cosm. Toil., 108 , 95 (1993) .
    [69] Silicone compound
    [70] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, which may be liquid or resin-like at room temperature. Glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicone, which is a mixture of dimethicones and hydrogenated silicates with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units. For a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones see Todd et al . , Cosm. Toil. 91 , 27 (1976) .
    [71] UV protection factors and antioxidants
    [72] UV protection factors in the present invention are, for example, organic substances (optical filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are capable of emitting ultraviolet or infrared radiation absorption and absorbed energy in the form of longer wave radiation, eg heat. The UV-B filter can be fat soluble or water soluble. The following are examples of fat-soluble substances:
    [73] 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and derivatives thereof, such as 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1 ;
    [74] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid amyl ester;
    [75] Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3 -Phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);
    [76] Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
    [77] Derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-meth Oxybenzophenone;
    [78] Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
    [79] Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6- trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and EP 0818450 A1 Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone as described in Uvasorb HEB);
    [80] Propane-1,3-dione, for example 1- (4-tert.butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione;
    [81] Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in EP 0694521 B1 .
    [82] Suitable water soluble materials are as follows:
    [83] 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
    [84] Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;
    [85] Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphors, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene)- Sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
    [86] Representative UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 1- (4'-tert.butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4 -tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789) or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and the yen described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF) It is an amine compound. UV-A and UV-B filters can, of course, also be used in the form of mixtures. Particularly suitable combinations are benzoyl methane together with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester Derivatives, for example 4-tert.butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene). Such combinations are advantageously combined with a water soluble filter, for example 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and gluqueammonium salts.
    [87] In addition to the soluble materials mentioned, insoluble light-blocking pigments, ie finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, can also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talcum), barium sulphate and zinc stearate can be used as salts. Oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably 5 to 50 nm, more preferably 15 to 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape, but elliptical particles or other non-spherical particles may also be used. Pigments may also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Representative examples are coated titanium dioxide such as Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) and Eusolex T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating materials are, among other things, silicones, in particular of trialkoxyoctylsilane or simethicone. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV filters are described in SOFW-Journal 122 , 543 (1996) and Parf. Kosm. 3, 11 (1999) , P. Finkel = s reviews.
    [88] In addition to the two groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interfere with the photochemical reaction chains that are triggered when UV rays penetrate the skin. Representative examples include amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carno Sin, L-carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid ) And derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thiorredoxine, glutathione) (glutathione), cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof ) And salts thereof, dilaurylthiodip Cypionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and very low compatible doses (eg pmole to μmole / kg) Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. butionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfone, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine), and also (metal) chelators (e.g. Examples include α-hydroxyfatty acid, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine, α-hydroxy acid (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extract , Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinone Ubiquinol and its oils Sieve, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) ) And coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glutitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxy Toluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide-dismutase (Superoxid-dismutase), zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene (stilbene), and Is - (stilbene oxide, for example stilbene oxide, trans) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purpose according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids per) derivatives.
    [89] Biogenic agent
    [90] In the present invention, the biobased agent is, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its degradation products, β-glucan, bisabolol, allantoin (allantoin ), Phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as prune extracts or bambara nut Extracts, and vitamin complexes.
    [91] Deodorant and germ inhibitors
    [92] Cosmetic deodorants resist, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odor is formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweating which results in the formation of decomposition products with an unpleasant odor. Thus, deodorants contain active elements that act as bacterial inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, malodor absorbers or malodor masking agents.
    [93] & Bacterial Inhibitors
    [94] Basically, suitable bacterial inhibitors include any substance that acts against gram-positive bacteria, for example 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N'- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 ' -Methylene-bis- (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) -phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) Propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial perfume, thymol, Thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML ), Diglycerol monocaprate ( DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides, for example salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.
    [95] & Enzyme inhibitors
    [96] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing odor formation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and cytosterol sulfates or phosphates, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example Examples include glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic Acids and esters thereof such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
    [97] & Odor absorbers
    [98] Suitable malodor absorbers are substances which can absorb and retain large amounts of malodor-forming compounds. They reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and thereby also reduce the rate at which they spread. An important requirement for this is that the fragrance must remain intact. Odor absorbers are not active against bacteria. They are, for example, zinc complexes of ricinoleic acid or extracts of specially flavored, mainly neutral odors, known as "fixateurs" by experts, for example, rabdanum or styrax. Or as a main component thereof, specific abietic acid derivatives. Odor masking agents are fragrances or aromatic oils which, besides their odor-shielding function, impart their special fragrance notes to deodorants. Suitable aromatic oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic flavors. Natural fragrances include extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woody parts, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials, such as musk and dissociation, may also be used. Representative synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of fragrance compounds of the ester type include benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalil acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl ( styrallyl) propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanal, citral, citronellal, citro, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are ionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isozinol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpene and balsam. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different perfume compounds which together produce a suitable fragrance. Other suitable aromatic oils are relatively low volatility essential oils which are mainly used as aromatic components. Examples include sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, Galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following may be used preferably, individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lily, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde , Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin Oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, labendine oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Bertofix Coeur , Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose ( rose oxide, romillat, Rotil (irotyl) and Flora mats (floramat).
    [99] & Antiperspirant
    [100] Restrictive agents reduce sweating by affecting the activity of the sweat gland and act against wetness of the armpits or odor from the body. Aqueous or water-free limiter formulations typically contain the following ingredients:
    [101] ▷ convergent active
    [102] Oil component,
    [103] ▷ nonionic emulsifier,
    [104] ▷ co-emulsifier,
    [105] ▷ coefficient
    [106] Aids and / or in the form of thickeners or combinations, for example
    [107] Nonaqueous solvents such as ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerol.
    [108] Suitable converging active elements of the limiting agent are, among others, salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their, for example 1,2-propylene glycol, Complexes, aluminum hydroxyalantoinates, aluminum chloride tartrates, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complexes with amino acids such as, for example, glycine. The fat soluble and water soluble auxiliaries typically used in limiting agents may also be present in relatively small amounts. Such fat-soluble aids include, for example:
    [109] ▷ anti-inflammatory, skin-protective or pleasant odor essential oils,
    [110] Synthetic skin-protectors and / or
    [111] Oil-soluble aromatic oils.
    [112] Representative water soluble additives include, for example, preservatives, water soluble fragrances, pH adjusters such as buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners such as water soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxide.
    [113] Swelling agent
    [114] Suitable swelling agents in the aqueous phase are montmorillonite, clay minerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling agents are described in Cosm. Toil. 108 , 95 (1993) ], R. Lochhead = s reviews.
    [115] Insect repellent
    [116] Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate.
    [117] Self-tanning agent and depigmenting agent
    [118] Suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and which are used in depigmentants are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, koji acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid ( Vitamin C).
    [119] Perfume (Hydrotrope)
    [120] In addition, nostalgic materials such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can be used to improve the flow behavior. Suitable polyols preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least 2 hydroxyl groups. The polyols may have other functional groups, more particularly amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Representative examples are as follows:
    [121] Glycerol;
    [122] Alkylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Daltons such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycol;
    [123] Self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 technical oligoglycerol mixtures, for example 40 to 50% by weight of technical diglycerol mixtures;
    [124] Methylol compounds such as trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
    [125] Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
    [126] Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol,
    [127] Sugars having from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;
    [128] Amino sugars such as glucamine;
    [129] Dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.
    [130] Preservative
    [131] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, name Surfacine Known as silver complexes and Kosmetikverordnung (ＡCosmetics Directive And other types of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B.
    [132] Aromatic oils and aromas
    [133] Suitable aromatic oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic flavors. Natural flavors include flowers (lilies, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petite grains), fruits (anis ( anise), coriander, fennel, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woody (pine) , Sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood, herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce) , Fir, pine, pine), resin and balsam (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax) extracts. Animal raw materials such as musk and dissociation may also be used. Representative synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of fragrance compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carvinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl fort Mate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, lily and burgional. Examples of suitable ketones are ionone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, it is desirable to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which together produce a suitable fragrance. Other suitable aromatic oils are relatively low volatility essential oils which are mainly used as aromatic components. Examples include sage oil, chamomile oil, cloves oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olivanum oil, galbanum oil, radanum oil and rabendine oil. . The following may be used preferably, individually or in the form of a mixture: bergamot oil, dihydromirsenol, lily, lyal, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl Acetone, Cyclamen Aldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedion, Sandelis, Citrus Oil, Mandarin Oil, Orange Oil, Allyl Amyl Glycolate, Cyclober Tal, labendine oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Bertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide ) NP, Evernyl, Iraldine Gamma, Phenyl Acetic Acid, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Acetate, Rose Oxide, Lomilat, Irotyl and Floramat.
    [134] Suitable aromas are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseed oil, Japanese anise oil, fennel oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, citrus oil, camellia oil, cloves oil, menthol and the like.
    [135] dyes
    [136] Suitable dyes are any suitable substances approved for cosmetic use, for example as listed in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" in Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81-106 . Examples include cochineal red A (CI 16255), pattern blue V (CI 42051), indigotin (CI 73015), chlorophyllin (CI 75810), quinoline yellow (0.1.47005), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder lake (CI 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. Such dyes are usually used at concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
    [137] The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, based on the specific formulation. The formulations can be prepared by standard hot or cold processes and are preferably prepared by the phase inversion temperature method.
    [138] Production Example
    [139] Example 1. In a stirred reactor, 0.5 g of preservative (Phenonip ) Was dissolved in 50 g of 2% by weight carboxymethyl cellulose aqueous formulation and the resulting solution was adjusted to pH 3.5. Thereafter, a 10% wt solution of retinol in soybean oil (Retinol S20, BASF) 10 g and sorbitan monostearate + 20 EO (Eumulgin A mixture consisting of 0.5 g of SMS 20, Cognis Deutschland GmbH) was added with vigorous stirring. Then, 1 wt% chitosan solution in glycolic acid (Hydagen CMF, Cognis Deutschland GmbH) was added while stirring in an amount such that the chitosan concentration was -0.075 wt%-based on the formulation. Finally, triethanolamine was added to raise the pH to 5.5 and the formed microcapsules were tilted.
    [140] Example 2 . In a stirred reactor, 0.5 g preservative (Phenonip 50 g of 2 wt% polyacrylic acid aqueous formulation (Pemulen) When dissolved in TR-2), pH 3 was automatically reached. Thereafter, a 10% wt solution of retinol in soybean oil (Retinol S20, BASF) 10 g and sorbitan monolaurate + 15 EO (Eumulgin SML 15, Cognis Deutschland GmbH) was added with vigorous stirring. Then, 1 wt% chitosan solution in glycolic acid (Hydagen CMF, Cognis Deutschland GmbH) was added while stirring in an amount such that the chitosan concentration was-0.01% by weight-based on the formulation. Finally, triethanolamine was added to raise the pH to 5.5 and the formed microcapsules were tilted.
    [141] Performance test
    [142] The stability and utility of retinol from retinol microcapsules were investigated in comparison to free retinol in o / w test emulsions. For this purpose, emulsions containing retinol microcapsules and emulsions containing free retinol were stored for 3 months at various temperatures, after which the retinol content was measured by HPLC. The results are shown in Table 1. It can be seen that about half of the retinol in the retinol microcapsules can still be used, even though unencapsulated retinol is rarely present.
    [143] Retinol Availability in Compositions and o / w EmulsionsFurtherance One C1 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol5.05.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate10.010.0 Retinol Microcapsules 1) 5.0- Retinol (glass)-0.05 Glycerol5.05.0 waterFit to 100 Retinol Content [% by weight of initial value] -3 months later, 20 ℃725 After 3 months, 45 ℃4821) 1% retinol content corresponding to 0.05 wt% absolute retinol
    [144] The stability of the retinol microcapsules according to the invention was similarly tested for the commercial product, Coletica Thalasspheres. The results are shown in Table 2.
    [145] Retinol Availability in Compositions and o / w EmulsionsFurtherance One C1 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol5.05.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate10.010.0 Retinol Microcapsules 1) 5.0- Retinol Thalassphere 1) -4.0 Glycerol5.05.0 waterFit to 100 Retinol Content [% by weight of initial value] 10 weeks later, 20 ° C8262 20 weeks later, 20 ° C6235 10 weeks later, 45 ° C512 At 20 ° C. after 20 weeks1901) Corresponds to 0.05 wt% absolute retinol
    权利要求:
    Claims (6)
    [1" claim-type="Currently amended] Skin treatment formulations containing an effective amount of microcapsules with an average diameter of 0.1 to 5 mm obtained by:
    (a) processing an aqueous formulation of retinol or retinol acid with the oil component in the presence of an emulsifier to form an o / w emulsion,
    (b) treating the obtained emulsion with an aqueous solution of anionic polymer,
    (c) contacting the obtained matrix with an aqueous chitosan solution to form a film,
    (d) separating the obtained encapsulated product from the aqueous phase, optionally in the presence of a thickener.
    [2" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 1, which contains microcapsules in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the final product.
    [3" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation of claim 1 and / or 2, wherein the microcapsules have a content of retinol or retinol acid of 0.005 to 5% by weight.
    [4" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 1, which is in the form of an emulsion.
    [5" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 4, which is in the form of an o / w emulsion.
    [6" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 4, which is in the form of a w / o emulsion.
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    EP1129771A1|2001-09-05|
    WO2001066240A1|2001-09-13|
    AU3544901A|2001-09-17|
    JP2003525917A|2003-09-02|
    WO2001066241A1|2001-09-13|
    JP2003526640A|2003-09-09|
    EP1261421A1|2002-12-04|
    US20030044469A1|2003-03-06|
    EP1261421B1|2005-12-14|
    EP1129771B1|2005-12-21|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    法律状态:
    2000-03-04|Priority to EP00104745A
    2000-03-04|Priority to EP00104745.5
    2001-02-03|Application filed by 코그니스 이베리아 에스.엘.
    2003-02-11|Publication of KR20030011784A
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    EP00104745A|EP1129771B1|2000-03-04|2000-03-04|Microcapsules|
    EP00104745.5|2000-03-04|
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